🧰 What I Usually Have Nearby When Repotting - Here’s what I keep on hand.. it just makes everything easier and less messy:
Fresh, well-draining potting mix (matched to the plant type)
Scissors or pruning shears ✂️ (I sterilize them with 70% isopropyl alcohol)
A chopstick or stick to help loosen roots
Gloves (optional—I don’t usually wear them, but you might!)
The most common misconception I see is that if roots are growing out of the drainage holes, the plant must be rootbound. But that’s not always true! Sometimes roots just grow toward moisture at the bottom of the pot—even if there’s still plenty of space inside!
Before jumping into a repot, let’s talk about what signs actually point to a rootbound plant—and when repotting is truly necessary.
👀 Clear pots make this way easier to spot. You can often see if the roots are circling or compacted without having to unpot the plant. If you don’t have one, it’s okay—just gently slide the plant out to check when in doubt.
Once I know it’s time to repot, here’s exactly what I do to keep things simple and low-stress—for both me and the plant:
Step 1: Hydrate First
If the soil is dry, I water the plant and wait about a day before repotting. This softens the root ball, makes it easier to work with, and lowers the chances of transplant shock.
Step 2: Gently Remove the Plant
I tip the pot to the side and lightly squeeze or tap the edges to loosen the plant. If it’s stuck, I try to be patient and avoid pulling hard—especially on top-heavy plants.
Step 3: Loosen the Roots (If Needed)
If the plant is rootbound, I gently unravel the roots from the root ball. It sounds intense, but it helps them spread out into the new soil instead of staying in that tight shape. I start slow with my fingers, wiggling and teasing the outer roots loose.
🪵 A chopstick helps if things are really compacted. And if the roots are too stubborn, I just loosen the outermost layer and leave the rest alone.
Step 4: Trim Unhealthy Roots
Mushy, smelly, or slimy roots = rotting and need to be snipped.
Dry, brittle, or snapping roots = dead and better removed now before they start to rot.
Step 5: Add Fresh Soil to the Bottom
I add a couple of inches of fresh, well-draining soil to the bottom of the new pot before placing the plant in. This gives the roots something to grow into and helps with stability once everything is in place.
💡 I try to match the soil mix to the plant’s needs—chunky for aroids, moisture-retentive for calatheas, etc.
Step 6: Place the Plant & Fill Around the Roots
Once the plant is in the pot, I hold it at the same height it was growing before and gently fill in around the roots with soil. I make sure the soil settles in without leaving big air pockets, but I don’t pack it down too tightly—just enough to keep the plant upright and stable.
Step 7: Water Thoroughly
After repotting, I give the plant a deep, thorough watering to help the soil settle in around the roots. Then I let it drain fully before putting it back in place.
I rarely run into issues after repotting and I think it’s because I don’t disturb the roots unless I absolutely have to. Keeping the root system intact as much as possible helps the plant settle in faster and reduces the risk of shock.
Here’s what I still keep in mind after repotting:
Same spot, same light: I always put the plant back where it was to avoid overwhelming it with too many changes.
No pruning right away: I give it a couple of weeks to adjust before doing anything else.
Some drooping is normal: Even when I’m super gentle, a bit of droopiness can happen but it usually recovers quickly.
Check the soil moisture: Fresh soil might hold water differently, so I keep an eye on it before going back to my usual watering routine.
đź’ˇ A smooth transition usually comes down to not messing with the roots too much, keeping the plant in familiar conditions, and just giving it a little time to bounce back
Clear Pots → Under 8 inches | Larger Pots
Peatless Soil → DIY Recipe | DIY Ingredients | Premixed